Ken Baldry's Alpine PagesChamonix to Zermatt - Day Nine - Grimentz to St. Luc |
From Grimentz to St LucThis map is copied from the Official Map of the Automobil-Club der Schweiz, (with their permission) which is on this link but not to scale |
Monday 28th June 2004 It was only sfr82.90 at the Hotel Cristal & the most comfortable so far. I left at 0830 but I was using my good coloured photocopy of the wretched map I bought because it showed the Europaweg (not on LK50 in 2002). It showed a path from the road from Grimentz to Zinal which lead to a bridge over the gorge going to Ayer. The path was not visible but I found it by descending a field to the woods & followed it to the gorge. The water had destroyed the bridge by displacing a huge concrete buttress that must have weighed 100 tons. The railway lines that the slats had stood on were twisted & bent but did cross the water at a steep angle. I shinned along one of them, monkey style, by jamming my knees between the track & flat bottom. The steep path up to Ayer was not best suited to clearing the adrenaline generated, so I was soaked in sweat by time I reached the village. One was inches above the raging torrent in the middle. Phew! It was a stuffy day anyway. Clearly, one should go down to the village of Mission & up from there. Whatever you do, don't do what I did. |
The road & path diasappear behind the hill, right. You can stay at St Luc or the Bella Tola Hut. |
The destroyed bridge below Ayer. |
Looking towards Zinal. See the Zinal pages for an alternative route. |
Ayer is nice but the road out & upwards is not well described on the wretched map & seemed to go on forever before a double back towards Gilou brings relief & soon, a thrutchy path steeply upwards through the trees. I elected to go to Gilou & then followed the path to St Luc (there was a lower alternative), as I had walked from there to Zermatt, going from St. Luc over Bella Tola in 1982 & from Chandolin via the Bella Tola Hut in 2002. Obviously, you will want to walk up to the Cabane de Bella Tola, either directly from a path above Gilou or, going further up, calling at the Hotel Weisshorn first. This is quite a short day. If you go to the hut, there is plenty of space outside to hang out your washing, if you have got behind with it.
For me however, there was still much to do today, so it would be a waste of time to go up to the Bella Tola Hut. Arolla to Zermatt was now complete. I was just in time for the bus to Sierre at 1233 (sfr12.40) & train to Sion (about sfr5.80), talking to an English family on their first Swiss trip on the bus. I was too late for lunch in Sion (!) & walked in the intense heat across the motorway junction to the turn-off to the Val d'Herens. Here, my luck changed & after a few minutes, a guide from Arolla on her way back gave me a lift all the way to Le Chargeur, where (as she has an English neighbour in Arolla who serves tea) I bought her English tea (sfr7). Le Chargeur is where the Hotel de la Grande Dixence is, right under the huge dam. I cleaned up & visited the Grand Dixence exhibition centre by the cable car station. This was very good, as it explained all the schemes & how they worked. Then, I returned to the hotel bar, where a group of 4 Irish girls were drinking. They were part of an Old Catholic (pre-Vatican II) group, who had deserted but their priest & some boys had gone on. I was worried that the party seemed ill-lead & had been out for a long time. When they eventually returned, the priest was dressed for priest with his cassock hitched up but with proper boots. They had been over the Col de Roux to the Prafleuri Hut &, while nowhere near the Col de Prafleuri, had had a hard time with the conditions. I forbore to tick him off, as they seemed to have been sensible, although so were the girls in deserting, as they only had basketball boots on. I ate in the hotel (where else?) & the whole bill, coffee, beer, dinner & board was only sfr 91.70.
An Alternative to going up to the Bella Tola Hut, is to go from Grimentz to Zinal along the road (2.5 hours max) to pick up Kev Reynolds C-Z walk route & staying a few days to recuperate! Then, go on to Grüben by the Forcletta Pass route, as I did on 30/6/2007.
Contact: Ken Baldry, 17 Gerrard Road, Islington, London N1 8AY +44(0)20 7359 6294 or e-mail him URL: http://www.art-science.com/Ken/Alpine/C-Z/cz9.html Last revised 23/6/2013 © 2004-2013 Ken Baldry. All rights reserved.