Ken Baldry's walks around Saas FeeAlpine Option - Traversing the Weissmies 4023m |
This account picks up from the Lagginhorn climb, which describes how to get to the Weissmies Hut. Instead of going straight across to the two glaciers under the Lagginhorn, keep going south on the path & up the South side of the bottom glacier. There are cairns across the Geissrück, marked on the map. Follow these & go up the glacier (this can be crevassed) when the rocks disappear into the ice (crampons on time). Go up to the plateau & cross it southwards to the foor of the big slope. Go up this to the summit & watch out for cornices there. Fantastic views all round.
Monte Rosa on the way up |
Berner Oberland on the way up |
The view North West on the way up |
The Dom & Mischabel from the top |
West Berner Oberland from the top |
Monte Rosa to the Taschorn from the top |
You can go back the same way to the hut but it can be icier later in the day. What we did was take the SE ridge, which is like a snowy roof top, with amazing exposure, dropping thousands of feet on each side. However, this is easy to traverse. The cornice can change sides half-way along, so you should, too. We had to. At the end is a rocky slope. Unrope, so as not to dislodge stones & there is nothing to belay to anyway. Go down the loose rocks to the icefield below (crampons on again). This is where my first wife was killed by a falling rock, which is why I am not using a diary entry for this climb. On the icefield, one goes South to the Zwitschbergen Pass. Turn right & follow the track down to the Almagelleralp Inn & then, the zig-zags which take you to Saas Almagell.
Contact: Ken Baldry, 17 Gerrard Road, Islington, London N1 8AY +44(0)20 7359 6294 or e-mail him
URL: http://www.art-science.com/Ken/Alpine/Saas_Fee/saasfee6.html Last revised 15/10//2010 © 2000-2010 Ken Baldry. All rights reserved.