Ken Baldry crosses Switzerland on Foot -Heidelberger Hut (CH) to the Jamtal Hut (A) |
Next North East page: Jamtal Hut to Bielerhohe |
Thursday 3rd September 2009There was a very good buffet breakfast at 7 but I had gone out before & it was raining. This had stopped when I left at 8 but came on twice more during the morning on the way up. In fact, until late afternoon, it was very cloudy. The path starts stony, then goes a long way up the valley, crossing several streams & only gaining about 300m before a big wash, after which it splits. (More pictures of this part on this link). The left-hand path goes to the Davo Dieu & over to Scuol but I went right, where it is fairly unremittingly 'up' to the little glacier. The waymarks are blue & went up the right-hand side (going up) but become very iffy as you get to the ice. Care is needed to get onto the ice & by this time, I had my old orange anorak on & had unshipped my ice-axe, so my fingers were pretty cold. This being September, the ice was very hard, dirty, wet & slippery, so I negotiated it with great care. |
Map (not to scale) from the Official Map of the Automobil-Club der Schweiz, (with their permission) which is on this link. |
From the Fuorcla di Val Gronda |
Vadret da Fenga (Kronenjoch Glacier) |
Ken above the glacier |
It soon became slag heap again. I had been passed by a couple of Gerries, one friendly & one, not. The friendly one took my photo at the cloud-girt sign at the top but this is not the top of the pass. That comes a little later after a stony stroll, which I took while they had their lunch & I did not see them again until they got to the Jamtal Hutte.
Down from the Kronenjoch |
Looking back up to the Kronenjoch |
Jamtal Hut |
The path down is, at first, a long, steep, slippery, shaly nightmare, requiring extreme care as slips are possible & possibly terminal. (Those of you with poles will be better off here but I have enough to carry). There is a lot more of this further down as well but otherwise, it is quite a pleasant descent through several steps. The Jamtal Hut (hut website) only appears with 20 minutes to go, after 6 hours 20 mins. It seemed at first, even more of a hotel than the Heidelberger, with automatic sliding glass doors to get in. I was at first, ignored which annoyed me but eventually, I was given a room. No hot water but there was a plastic jug to get some from the washroom. It was €46 half board but you also got a welcome bowl to quite good soup & bread on arrival. The table numbers are tied to the rooms. There was no water at all when I arrived but after the Hut Guardian had fiddled with running a pipe down the hill, there was plenty. I chatted to several people in the course of the evening & was invited to join an interesting guy from Munich at his table for dinner, which was as good as the Heidelberger's with a big chunk of pork. Beers € 7.60. 24,447 paces.
However...Forced rest day...Friday 4th September 2009
As the forecast was rain all day & it was raining when I got up, I resolved to go down to Galtur (village website) instead of over the Getscnerscharte to Bielerhöhe after another excellent buffet breakfast. It took 2.5 hours & about 14,000 paces to get to Galtur, where I checked into the Hotel Alpina, run by the entire Walter family, cheap & quite nice, just above the town centre. I washed all my Alpine clothes, trousers included & myself before going down into Galtur at 1200, the rain having stopped, to buy 14 cards (€7) & write them in the Hotel Fluchthorn, accompanied by their excellent home-made tomato soup & coffee (€6.90).
Down the Jamtal on a dirty day |
Galtur when I got there |
Galtur later! |
The 2009 tour will continue on the next page with an alternative route to meet up with my original start point of Gargellen.
Next North East page: Jamtal Hut to Bielerhohe |
Contact: Ken Baldry, 17 Gerrard Road, Islington, London N1 8AY +44(0)20 7359 6294 or e-mail him
URL: http://www.art-science.com/Ken/Alpine/XSwiss/alpine22.html Last revised 13/7/2011 © 2011 Ken Baldry. All rights reserved.