I did this in 1985, 1998 & 2005. Although I have walked up the Gemmi path from Kandersteg several times, when I did this in 1985, I had actually stayed at Selden in the Gasternthal, hence the start described. However, this is a bit easier from Kandersteg. You walk up the road to the South, ignore the cable car unless you feel lazy & take the steep path up to the Stock. Stick to the main path for splendid views up the Gasterntal & the struggle path described below soon joins the main path, which is part of the Gemmi Pass pack-horse track.

Monday 8th July 1985 - Röte Kumme and Kindbettipass to the Engstligenalp

I was quite right to change my plan on several counts. The walk down the Gasterntal was not to be missed & the interesting slog up from Waldhaus would be dangerous to go down. The Rote Kumme path leaves the Gemmi track soon after the Schwarenbach Hotel, where I had a beer, & wanders up to the Kumme which was more or less snow-filled. I moved up slowly but was generally in much better shape than yesterday after 11 hours sleep. The Talligletscher between the Rote Kumme & Kindbettipass looks a worse slog than it is & with huge snow fields to plod straight down, I soon got down the other side. I met a couple from Manchester as well & went to the Engstligenalp Hotel with them but they came down to dinner late after I had had a chat to two remarkable Dutch girl students who were going to sleep rough tonight in a barn above the alp. They planned to knock off everything round here.

The Schwarenbach Hotel half-way along the Gemmi Pass in 1998

The Engstligenalp Hotel in June 1978

The Engstligenalp & Steghorn, when the passes described here were impassable

The reason the above tour starts in Selden in the Gasterntal is because I had taken the sleeper out to Goppenstein in the Lötschental & walked over the Lötschen Pass to Selden. Although it was July 7th, I had had to kick snow steps up to the pass & take much care crossing the Lötschen Glacier on the North side. The path down to Selden is a scratchy thing on the West side of the glacier, which was very crevassed then.

Sunday 6th September 1998 - Starting this route from Kandersteg

In 1998, I walked up to the Waldhaus from Kandersteg with my 2nd wife, Avis. The entrance to the gorge, clearly signposted, looks most unpromising bu the path up the gorge is easy & opens out into the wonderland that is the Gasterntal as a dramatic surprise. Then, use the Waldhaus route as above.

The gorge up into the Gasterntal - Avis wondering where it goes!

Looking back from the gloomy gorge to Kandersteg

The Altels from the glorious Gasterntal

Tuesday 9th July 1985 - Ammerten Pass

I did not sleep too well - maybe it was too hot but I had the window wide open at 1964 metres! I moved off very slowly to the Ammerten Pass on a fairly gentle path up the West side of this enormous cwm, as my feet were giving me trouble. If it wasn’t for that, the walk up to 2450m is quite easy & enjoyable. I took 1/4 hour longer that the sign’s 2 hours up. The path down the other side, for the 1st 500m, has very bad steep shale & you have to watch every foot. Although my blisters preferred the going down, I was not going well. At this point, one has a choice: either to go on to Lenk or to go to Iffigenalp. In 1985, I went to Lenk... I had a big lunch at the Simmenfalle Hotel & really slogged the path to Lenk. It took me 7.5 hours to do the 5.25 hour walk (incl. lunch).

Ammerten Pass from the West (Lenk) side

The view from the Ammerten Pass is my idea of Heaven, with the snow-covered Wildhorn in the background & verdant hills & pastures below - a perfect balance & so beautiful), I decided to go home tomorrow anyway & leave sorting out any problems with my ticket until I was on the train. I stayed at the Wildstrubel Hotel again (as with Dad) to cool my burns in the swimming pool. There was a Swiss Travel tour at the ‘Wildstrubel’, for a fortnight. I would have thought that Lenk, although my favourite Berner Ob. village, was a poor base for a tour, even if you were a stout walker & most of this lot were not. However, I have put some Lenk walks on this link.

In 2005, I surveyed this alternative: over to the Iffigenalp via the Oberlaubhorn...

When the Ammerten Pass path descends to the valley & if you have 2.5 hours puff left (which you should - I was not really well in 1985), instead of turning right towards Lenk itself, turn left & go up until you see a sign to Siebenbrunnen & Iffigenalp off to the right. You will pass some waterfalls on the way.

Siebenbrunnen (7 streams)

Siebenbrunnen falls

Langer

Follow this track, which is still a jeep-track at first, past the Siebenbrunnen falls over to your left & take a steep footpath up through the trees to the Langer chalet. The path carries on upards to the left & the OberLaubhorn is visible to the right above you. Carry on over the little pass & get the tremendous view up the Iffigtal, with Iffigenalp below. (See the Lenk page for the OberLaubhorn itself). Drop down to Iffigenalp & stay in the Iffigenalp Hotel, a very vintage chalet without running water in the rooms but with a very good shower room. Good food in the café, provided in 2005 by Frau Gfeller, who treats you better than your own Mum.

This sets you up for another alternative pass to Lauenen on this link,
which is more sporting than the Lenk to Lauenen passes on this link.

Previous page: Mürren to Kandersteg

Next page on the original trip: Adelboden to Lenk

Next page on the Iffigalp alternative

Gargellen start

Kappl start

Ischgl start

Cross-Swiss Index page

Alpine Index page

Ken & Avis' Home Page