Ken Baldry crosses Switzerland on Foot -

Adelboden to Lenk via the Hahnenmoos


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Adelboden-Hahnenmoos-Lenk 1978

All of this page is on LK236, 'Wildstrubel'.

 

This page describes the route higher on the map.

The lower route is the Engstligenalp alternative described on another page.

 

This map is copied from the Official Map of the Automobil-Club der Schweiz, (with their permission) which is on this link but not to scale.

Sunday 18th June 1978 35 today

On this trip, I inadvertantly crossed three of the passes on the tour because I intended to go to Leukerbad from Adelboden and could not get across the main range.

The main Berner Oberland ridge could be seen from Bern and I tried to film it. (I was using movie this trip. None of it came out). At Frütigen, I got off and caught the bus to Adelboden. It being a Sunday, everything was shut but the bus depot man assured me that the Engstligenalp Hotel was open. I aimed to go up there and cross to Leukerbad over the Rote Kumme the next day, so I set off in new boots with a full rucksack. It is about 3 miles to the bottom of the cable car by flower-filled meadows. At Birg, the path up was marked 'Gesperrt' which I naturally ignored. I found chunks of the path were blanked off in gullies by steep snow. At one point, I had to cut steps with my axe and would have put crampons on if it had been much steeper as the gully dropped over a cliff. As I neared the top, two cocky krauts came skipping down, without ice axes. I pointed out that they should go back up as it was not safe below. They told me they had seen me cutting steps from the cable car, so it was all right. Huh! When I scrambled up the snow to the top, I found the Engstligenalp as impressive as everyone says but covered in at least half a metre of snow and fit for ski-ing. I had a good lunch but it was obvious that there was no question of going over to Leukerbad by this pass, so I went back down. I was thankful that the clumsy krauts had not kicked off all my steps but surprised not to find their corpses below the gully and cliff. Obviously, I had to return to Adelboden and find a bed for the night there. On the way, I chatted to a Swiss who had a chalet 2nd home there. I asked about the Bunderchrinde pass to Kandersteg and he said it might be possible. The hotel I used was the Edelweiss-Schweizerhof and Frau Petzold pointed out the avalanche danger this side of the Bunderchrinde and said it was steeper with a narrow path on the other side, so I thought I would go to Lenk tomorrow. The hotel was seedy-posh but, as usual, the food was ok, with a spinach tart for a 2nd course. A fattish, jolly maid called Annie in national dress had hitch-hiked to Greece last year. I liked the Edelweiss-Schweizerhof but Adelboden is a curiously characterless place and I see no reason to stay there again, as next time, the Rote-Kumme will be open or we go straight to Lenk. Annie and Frau Petzold thought I was crazy to walk to Lenk! For more about the Engstligenalp alternative route, follow this link.

Monday 19th June 1978 Hahnenmoos from Adelboden to Lenk

Author at Gilbach, going up.

South from the Hahnenmoos, Lenk down to the right

The bill, including my Apfelsaft, was only 42 fr, so I can be well pleased about that. It was rather dull when I set out for the Hahnenmoos. For the first two miles or so from Adelboden 1348m, it is a road walk and I passed a group of soldiers with field artillery, which I filmed. A Swiss couple from Schaffhausen came up and I walked to the top with them. The path branched off through the woods at Gilbach and wound wetly upward. Not such a vast number of flowers visible as yesterday. At the bottom of the egg railway to the Hahnenmoos, we were back on a quite reasonable road, which went to the top at 1950m. It took three hours to get up from Adelboden but this was, to some extent, still a training walk. We stopped in the café for half an hour where they bought the poor Englishman a coffee, then it started to rain a bit. Outside, people were flying radio-controlled gliders around. It only took an hour to get down to Lenk 1064m, through many more flowers than the other side. I found the Verkehrsbureau shut for a three hour lunch but outside was an electric hotel guide map with the free allocation of five hotels.

Seen from the OberLaubhorn looking North-East. Photos 2005.

The Stueblenipass , a possible for tomorrow, seen from the OberLaubhorn looking North-West. The Truttlisberg Pass is more-or-less behind the marked line.

I had hoped to find one some way up the Truttlisberg Pass to shorten tomorrow's marathon but, as it happened, the weather did not look too good, so I headed for the Hotel Waldrand as being the one nearest the pass. A good choice. It was rather nicer than yesterday's and the landlady spoke bad English she thought was good. I encouraged her to speak German! One look at me was enough for her to whip out a cheap-entry-to-the-swimming-pool ticket which I took immediate advantage of. It is a big indoor pool at 28°C, hot and very nice indeed. I lazed about for an hour, then went off to explore the village which is far more characterful than Adelboden. The reason for going to Lenk was to see if I could cross the main ridge by the Rawil Pass but it was no go, hence the South-West-facing Truttlisberg Pass. Then it rained solidly for the rest of the day (from 1645). This would have come down as snow above, of course, so there was much head-shaking at my plans. A good thing I have learned to listen to so-called local knowledge with scepticism. I chatted to a Fleming family, the father of which was born on 18-6-55! There was a Swiss folklore programme on the TV with an Alan Whicker type narrating. It was called 'Chumm und Lueg' ('Komm und Schau' in Hoch Deutsch).

Another Alternative - Going to Lauenen via Iffigenalp

It is an easy walk from Adelboden to Lenk & it is only another two & a half hour's walk on to Iffigenalp from Lenk, taking in the splendid Iffig Falls on the way. I did this on Monday 5th September 2005.

From Iffigenalp, there is a more sporting alternative to Lauenen on this link.

Previous page:
Kandersteg to Adelboden

Next page:
Lenk to Gsteig

Alternative from
Iffigenalp page

Gargellen start

Kappl start

Ischgl start

Cross-Swiss Index page

Lenk village page

Alpine Index page

Ken & Avis' Home Page


Contact: Ken Baldry, 17 Gerrard Road, Islington, London N1 8AY +44(0)20 7359 6294 or e-mail him
URL: http://www.art-science.com/Ken/Alpine/XSwiss/alpine8.htmlLast revised 27/6/2008 © 1998-2008 Ken Baldry. All rights reserved.